Moke 1275cc A+ Engine

Once I had the front sub frame removed I could get stuck into the engine. I had not planned to rebuild the engine as this had recently been done. I did however plan to rebuild the carbie (1.75", HIF6) and any other external components on the engine. I did a lot of research into the engine that I have and came up with all sorts of interesting information.

Engine Number Breakdown: 12HC01AA XXXXXX (from an Austin Metro)

  • 12HC01 - 1300 Metro Engine

  • 12 - 1275cc

  • H - Transverse

  • C01 - If you know then please let me know. Click here

  • AA - Carb Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) and Air Temperature Control (ATC)

  • XXXXXX - Serial Number

My understanding of the 12HC01 engines were that they were standard compression for the A+ series; i.e., 9:75:1, instead of 10.5:1. Based on various sources, I am estimating the engine to be manufactured in 1986. CCV means that the crankcase fumes are sucked back through the carbie for re-burning as part of the fuel/air mixture. A black rubber hose comes from the clutch housing breather and the same from the timing cover breather. These meet at a 'Y' piece and then go straight into the side of the carbie. ATC is the cold start device that sucks in warm air from the hot box on the exhaust manifold. This is controlled by a bimetallic flap valve in the air box.

The letter H in 99H (998cc), 10H (1100cc) and 12H (1275cc) was used to indicate a transverse engine (like a Mini's), instead of an inline engine (like a Midget). This is not to be confused with the letters L and H, used on early engines and in different positions, to indicate High or Low compression. High is usually the standard compression engine and Low being one made for export markets with even poorer fuel than the home market.

I was interested to know the output of my engine at the fly wheel in Kilowatts as that is a commonly used unit here in Australia. A few calculations later: 1BPH (brake horse power) ~= 0.7457KW I estimated the factory power ratings to be as follows:

  • Engine made for: 1980-90: Austin Metro

  • Engine power: 63bhp @ 5650rpm ~= 46.9791KW

  • Engine torque: 72lb ft @ 3100rpm

Of course these are the factory settings including factory air intake, pollution control etc. I have not had my engine on the dyno but plan on doing so once the restoration is complete. You can find all sorts of great info here:

First up, prepping the engine ready to be painted.

Second up, commence the painting. The engine was first scrubbed back with a wire brush to the bare cast and then degreased. The cast block was then rust converted and sprayed with pot belly black high temp paint as an undercoat. This was then sprayed with a high temp cherry red engine paint. I did not burn the paint in properly as it was too noisy and too much trouble to fire the engine up less the exhaust pipes. I did however use a heat gun to try and set the paint. A few years on, this method seemed to work well and apart from the loss of sheen, the paint has not come away from the block. The crank case and the gear box had the same treatment only these have been sprayed with high temp metallic silver.

Likewise with the extractors, SU and various brackets (SU with a high temp clear coat also). The SU has held up well however the heat of the extractors turned out to be too much for the paint once it was back on the road. Powder coating would probably be a better option for the ultra high temp items.