Once I had the front sub frame removed I could get stuck into the engine. I had not planned to rebuild the engine as this had recently been done. I did however plan to rebuild the carbie (1.75", HIF6) and any other external components on the engine. I did a lot of research into the engine that I have and came up with all sorts of interesting information.
Engine Number Breakdown:
12HC01AA XXXXXX (from an Austin Metro)
12HC01 - 1300 Metro Engine
12 - 1275cc
H - Transverse
C01 - If you know then please let me know.
Click here
AA - Carb Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) and Air Temperature Control
(ATC)
XXXXXX - Serial Number
My understanding of the 12HC01 engines were that they were standard compression
for the A+ series; i.e., 9:75:1, instead of 10.5:1. Based on various sources, I
am estimating the engine to be manufactured in 1986. CCV
means that the crankcase fumes are sucked back through the carbie for re-burning
as part of the fuel/air mixture. Most certainly not a helper in performance. A
black rubber hose comes from the clutch housing breather and the same from the
timing cover breather. These meet at a 'Y' piece and then go straight into the
side of the carbie. ATC is the cold start device that sucks in warm air from the
hot box on the exhaust manifold. This is controlled by a bimetallic flap valve
in the air box.
The letter H in 99H (998cc), 10H (1100cc) and 12H (1275cc) was used to indicated
a transverse engine, a la Mini, instead of an inline engine, a la Midget. This
is not to be confused with the letters L and H, used on early engines and in
different positions, to indicate High or Low compression. High is usually the
standard compression engine and Low being one made for export markets with even
poorer fuel than the home market.
I was interested to know the output of my engine at the fly wheel in Kilowatts
as that is a commonly used unit in and I wanted to compare it to the V8 in my
Jeep (I can hear you laughing at that one). So...I did a few
calculations...Going by: 1BPH (brake horse power) ~= 0.7457KW I estimated my
factory power ratings to be as follows:
Engine made for: 1980-90: Austin Metro
Engine power: 63bhp @ 5650rpm ~= 46.9791KW
Engine torque: 72lb ft @ 3100rpm
Of course these are the factory settings. I have not had my engine on the dyno
but plan on doing so once the restoration is complete.
You can find all sorts of great info:
http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/index.htm?engineaseriesf.htm
I managed to come across a great step by step document on rebuilding an A+ series engine by AC Dodd (UK engine specialist): Click here
So, on to the engine works...First up, prepping the engine ready to be painted.
Second up, commence the painting. The engine was first scrubbed back with a wire brush to the bare cast and then degreased. The cast block was then rust converted and sprayed with pot belly black high temp paint as an undercoat. This was then sprayed with a high temp cherry red engine paint. I did not burn the paint in properly as it was too noisy and too much trouble to fire the unit up. I did however use a heat gun to try and set the paint. I will know when it is back together whether or not the paint has set correctly. The crank case and the gear box had the same treatment only these have been sprayed with high temp metallic silver. Likewise with the extractors, SU and various brackets (SU with a high temp clear coat also).
Update 19th January 2008: A few new parts have since been fitted. Firstly being the custom brake lines for the front custom brakes (refer to the brakes page). Another interesting part to mention is the new braided clutch hose connecting the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder. I purchased this from Mini Sport where most of my parts have come from and basically it removes the old rubber and metal hoses to simply the mess of hoses under the bonnet. Both ends of this hose have the banjo type fitting. Also, I have fitted a new shiny engine earth strap and a new starter solenoid as per the original spec as the one I had on there had a big button on the base of it that is designed to manually bridge the two connections in turn making it incredibly easy to hot wire the car. I think this old solenoid came out of an old Morris Minor so it can stay in the drawer as a spare.